通過企業實例展現成衣設計過程，配合企業品牌定位，全面詮釋成衣設計內涵；

來自企業的實踐經驗——從設計調研到設計概念，再到最后工藝制作、產品推廣，實現完整的成衣設計與制作過程；以項目任務的形式，做系統性、實戰性和可操作性的講解。

成衣設計，作為成衣產業鏈中重要的一環，兼具設計的藝術性與市場性。市場化的企業運作方式決定成衣設計師必須熟知市場運作規律，能夠結合市場需求和企業的生產特點進行設計，同時能夠很好地與相關部門溝通協作。

本書共9章：第1章 成衣設計項目任務綜述，闡述成衣設計項目任務的特點和過程、認知設計、成衣與成衣設計、成衣產業、成衣設計項目的基本概念；第2章 任務一：項目調研，了解設計項目調研的基本內容和方法，以有效的方式依照程序進行市場調研，遵照服裝流行的規律，運用流行信息來源搜集有效資訊作為產品開發的依據；第3章 任務二：確定設計主題，針對品牌和產品的

風格、消費群體等多方面進行定位，為設計任務確定本季產品明確的主題；第4章 任務三：款式設計，設計新一季產品結構，進行分類設計、基本款設計和款式系列設計；第5章 任務四：色彩搭配，運用色彩規律及流行色彩進行服裝整體性配色；第6章 任務五：面輔料的應用，根據款式要求選擇相應的面輔料；第7章 任務六：紙樣設計，準確制定服裝的尺寸規格，進行成衣制板，計算用料率并進行排料，合理編制所加工服裝的工藝順序和標準；第8章 任務七：工藝設計，進一步進行服裝面輔料裁剪、排料及樣衣的縫制；第9章 任務八：設計發布，采用多種宣傳方式向消費者和市場傳達品牌的理念、展示該季的產品，將產品順利推向市場。

本書注重成衣設計產品開發的操作過程，在側重能力實踐的同時適當佐之以相應理論知識，適應當代服裝職業教育的需求。

本書由豐蔚任主編，馬淑燕、林璐、陳靜任副主編，另外參加部分編寫工作的還有劉錢洲、遲玲玲、張偉利等。

編者

2010年3月

第 1 章 成衣設計項目任務綜述 ················ 1
■ 1.1 認知設計 ··········································2
■ 1.2 成衣與成衣設計 ·································4
■ 1.3 成衣產業 ··········································6
1.3.1 產業概述 ··········································································6
1.3.2 成衣設計公司中的設計團隊 ··········································7
■ 1.4 成衣設計項目 ····································8
1.4.1 成衣設計項目工作過程 ··················································8
1.4.2 成衣設計的周期 ······························································8
第 2 章 任務一：項目調研 ·····················13
■ 2.1 產品定位 ········································14
2.1.1 確立目標消費群體 ························································15
2.1.2 設計風格定位 ································································17
2.1.3 設定品種類型 ································································18
2.1.4 明確產品生產與銷售方式 ············································20
■ 2.2 市場調研 ········································21
2.2.1 市場調研方式 ·································································21
2.2.2 市場調研內容 ·································································22
■ 2.3 流行趨勢 ········································33
2.3.1 流行周期 ········································································34
2.3.2 獲取流行趨勢的途徑和渠道 ········································35
2.3.3 完成為設計任務服務的流行趨勢報告 ························39
2.3.4 流行趨勢報告 ································································44
2.3.5 流行趨勢報告案例 ························································44
第 3 章 任務二：確定設計主題 ···············49
■ 3.1 設計主題的概念 ·······························50
3.1.1 為什么確立設計主題 ····················································50
3.1.2 設計主題 ········································································50
■ 3.2 設計主題的確定 ·······························54
■ 3.3 設計主題的確定方法 ·························60
3.3.1 調研法 ············································································60
3.3.2 類比法 ············································································60
3.3.3 延伸法 ············································································60
3.3.4 歸納法 ···········································································60
■ 3.4 設計主題案例 ·································60
3.4.1 品牌定位 ········································································60
3.4.2 消費群體 ········································································61
3.4.3 確定設計主題 ································································61
第 4 章 任務三：款式設計 ·····················65
■ 4.1 款式分類設計 ··································66
4.1.1 分類設計的概念與意義 ················································66
4.1.2 服裝大類分類 ································································66
4.1.3 服裝細節分類 ································································66
■ 4.2 基本款設計 ·····································73
4.2.1 基本款的概念 ································································73
4.2.2 基本款的確定 ·······························································74
4.2.3 基本款的種類與風格 ····················································74
4.2.4 案例 ···············································································77
■ 4.3 款式系列設計 ··································77
4.3.1 款式系列設計的概念與意義 ········································77
4.3.2 款式系列設計的原則 ····················································78
4.3.3 款式系列設計的特點 ····················································79
4.3.4 款式系列設計的常用手法 ············································79
4.3.5 款式系列設計的表現形式： ········································80
2
■ 4.4 基本款設計案例 ·······························81
第 5 章 任務四：色彩搭配 ·····················83
■ 5.1 認識色彩 ········································84
■ 5.2 色彩搭配 ········································86
■ 5.3 流行色與常規色 ·······························97
5.3.1 流行色 ············································································97
5.3.2 常規色 ············································································97
5.3.3 流行色預測 ····································································97
■ 5.4 案例分析 ········································99
第 6 章 任務五：面輔料的應用 ············· 103
■ 6.1 服裝面輔料 ··································· 104
6.1.1 面料分類 ······································································104
6.1.2 輔料分類 ······································································105
■ 6.2 面輔料的選擇與運用 ······················· 107
6.2.1 面輔料的選擇 ······························································108
6.2.2 常見面料風格 ······························································109
■ 6.3 面料的再創造 ································ 110
■ 6.4 案例 ············································ 112
第 7 章 任務六：紙樣設計 ··················· 115
■ 7.1 認知紙樣設計 ································ 116
7.1.1 人體測量與服裝規格 ··················································117
7.1.2 認知成衣紙樣制圖 ······················································119
7.1.3 常用制圖符號說明與規范 ··········································122
■ 7.2 成衣紙樣設計流程 ·························· 122
7.2.1 上衣原型制板 ······························································122
7.2.2 大身結構 ······································································124
7.2.3 局部結構運用 ······························································126
■ 7.3 紙樣設計應用篇 ····························· 142
7.3.1 連衣裙 ··········································································142
7.3.2 襯衫 ············································································144
7.3.3 夾克 ··············································································147
7.3.4 套裝 ··············································································149
■ 7.4 成衣工業制板 ································ 149
7.4.1 產品設計開發流程 ······················································150
7.4.2 成衣工業制板 ······························································151
第 8 章 任務七：工藝設計 ··················· 157
■ 8.1 工藝設計 ······································ 158
8.1.1 概念及內容介紹 ··························································158
8.1.2 內容分析 ······································································158
8.1.3 案例分析 ······································································161
■ 8.2 工序設計 ······································ 161
8.2.1 概念及內容介紹 ··························································161
8.2.2 工序流程圖分析 ··························································166
■ 8.3 服裝制板、工藝設計及流程分析案例 ·· 167
第 9 章 任務八：設計發布 ··················· 179
■ 9.1 靜態設計發布 ································ 180
9.1.1 櫥窗展示 ······································································180
9.1.2 平面宣傳 ······································································181
■ 9.2 動態設計發布 ······························· 183
9.2.1 訂貨會 ··········································································183
9.2.2 品評會 ·········································································183
9.2.3 博覽會 ··········································································184
9.2.4 發布會 ··········································································184
附 錄 ·········································· 187
■ 參考文獻 ············································· 188
■ 作者簡介 ············································· 188

1. CLO 3D服裝虛擬仿真設計與應用基礎 [主編　王靜]
2. 高等學校畢業設計（論文）指導教程——藝術設計類專業 [主編 王樹彬 薛春艷]
3. 環境藝術設計概論 [主編張建濤]
4. 藝術設計概論 [紀學艷]
5. 新成衣設計 [豐蔚]
6. 線描 [雷明娜]